QUESTION OF THE WEEK
How and when can I move a perennial, shrub, or tree?
Answer: Sometimes we simply have to move a plant: the light changes and it’s not happy, it’s outgrown its spot, seeded itself in the wrong area, or we’re adding a patio, playscape, or other hardscape. November is an excellent time to move shrubs while they are dormant and temperatures are cooler. The plant will handle its move a lot easier and can
re-establish its roots before summer returns.
First of all, water the plant well the day before. You may also want to moisten the new area to make it easier to dig.
Next, if it’s a big plant, it’s helpful to wrap the branches if you can (like a store-bought Christmas tree), especially something like a large rose bush that can nab you. A smaller plant doesn’t need this step. Also, cut the plant by about half to make it easier to move and to compensate for the loss of roots. This is a good time to prune off any dead branches.
Dig the new hole and have it ready. Dig it as deep as the plant is currently; no deeper, and about twice the width of the root ball. Obviously, you may have to guess on this a little. Once you have the new plant moved, you may need to dig a little more or fill back in, so that it’s not planted too deeply. But at least get the hole started. (If you have to finesse the hole, keep the new plant in shade while you work.)
Then dig wide all around the plant. Ideally, you would make a cut around the plant a few months or even a few weeks in advance so that it will send out feeder roots to help it recover a bit faster.
If you pre-cut the roots in advance: On moving day, dig out beyond that initial cut to protect the new feeder roots.
If you didn’t pre-cut, just dig around wide enough to get as much of the root ball as you can. This will depend on the size of the plant.
Dig one side and lean it away from you. You may have to scrabble soil away as you’re going, to see where the roots are. Slide a tarp underneath it. Then, dig the other side, leaning the root ball back the other way to finish cutting those roots, and slide the tarp under the whole root ball.
The tarp makes it easier to drag to the new location without upsetting the root ball. At the new hole, set the plant in at the same depth it was growing before. Err on the side of too high rather than too low. Do not add compost. Backfill with the original soil, firm it, and water slowly. Let the water bubble up; let it settle, backfill some more, firm it again, and water again. You don’t want to water too fast. It’s best to water slowly, let it bubble and settle, and water again, to make sure it’s made it all the way down into the hole to thoroughly moisten the roots.
Finally, mulch by making a berm around the plant to hold water. Avoid piling mulch up against the trunk or root flare. Do not fertilize. Over winter, keep it watered, but don’t drown it. Check soil moisture to keep it moist but not soggy. If it’s a semi-tender plant, be ready to cover it in extreme cold by draping rowcover or a blanket over it and anchoring it down to hold in soil heat.
past Questions of the Week →
PLANT OF THE WEEK
Copper Canyon Daisy
(Tagetes lemmonii)
Copper Canyon Daisy produces a 3 to 4 foot tall mound of finely cut foliage with a strong citrusy-pine odor. In
fall the plant absolutely explodes with a profusion of single bright
yellow blooms about an inch in diameter. I learned long ago not
to say any plant is “deer proof”, but this one is as
close as you can get. Give it full sun and good drainage. It is
a superb choice for informal perennial beds or water thrifty landscapes.
past Plants of the Week →
PLANTING TIPS OF THE WEEK
- Plant wildflower seeds, larkspurs, poppies
- Plant snapdragons, alyssum, ornamental cabbage, kale, stock and other cool season flowers
- Plant perennial herbs like oregano and rosemary (which may need winter protection this first year)
- Save summer seeds. Clean and set on a screen for good air circulation to let them properly dry. Once dry, store them in an airtight container in the refrigerator or freezer.
- If your holly plants are looking a little yellow as they’re setting berries, give them a little fertilizer that is high in iron.
more Planting Tips →
THIS WEEK'S FEATURE
Meet the plants for small-space gardens or small spaces in large gardens.
Scott Thurmon, garden designer.
Can take west-facing sun:
Lady slipper plant (Pedilanthus macrocarpus)
Dwarf cenizo (Leucophyllum Blue Ranger)
dyckia
Agave bracteosa
Agave ‘Sharkskin’
Full sun:
Tiny Tower Italian cypress
Sun or a little shade
‘Royal Purple’ smoke tree
Shade, north side:
Peacock ginger ‘Raven’, black mondo grass ‘Ebony Night,’ Mr. Goldstrike Acuba, lace fern, variegated Japanese sedge
Full to half day sun:
Mugho pine (partial shade okay)
Knock Out rose
dwarf bottlebrush
‘Chapel Hill Yellow’ lantana
‘Roman Beauty’ rosemary
silver Mediterranean fan palm
variegated society garlic
Twisted myrtle Communis ‘Boetica’
Dianella tasmanica ‘Yellow Stripe’
Loropetalum ‘Suzanne’ 3-4’ |
