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| Q. How can I be successful with a Japanese
maple? |
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A. We often get questions
from gardeners about problems they’ve had with this ornamental
tree. Maybe you’ve planted one and lost it, and wonder what
you can do to avoid that. Japanese maple is one of those Eastern
species, like an azalea, that would like to be in a forest floor
environment. It needs lots of compost and a shady spot. Don’t
stick it in the full brunt of the sun.
Now, I’ve seen a few that obviously can’t read this,
because they’re growing right out in the middle of the yard.
But most of the time, if you want success, you need to get them
in a very bright shade, not dark shade; they need good light, but
not the full brunt of the sun.
Japanese maple comes in many different forms. Some have leaves
that are very broad, like a sweet gum or a maple leaf, and others
are very, very finely cut, like an aralia leaf. I’ve noticed
that the types with broader leaves tend to do better in our climate.
They seem to be a little more successful, but all types can be seen
growing around Austin with the proper kind of care. So keep the
soil moist, make sure drainage is good, give them good light, but
not too much sun, and you’ll have success with your Japanese
maple.
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<<view past Questions of the Week |
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 Firebush
(Hamelia patens)
Firebush is a super tough perennial for central Texas. Few plants
can match it for heat tolerance and pest resistance. Orange-red-yellow
tubular blossoms appear in clusters in early summer through
fall, attracting hummingbirds and butterflies. The green foliage
takes on a reddish tinge with the arrival of cooler weather
in the fall. Plants are typically 3 to 4 feet tall and wide.
Firebush prefers full sun but will also tolerate part shade.
It is well suited to almost any soil, even highly alkaline,
heavy clays, as long as they are well drained. It is well suited
to large containers, but will require more frequent watering
when container grown. Firebush has no serious insect or disease
problems when grown outdoors in full sun locations.
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<<view past Plants
of the Week
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- Scale insects tend to sneak up on us in the summer. When one
or two quickly turn into 100 or 2000, a branch is in big trouble.
Keep checking your fruit trees and other susceptible plants. If
you catch scale early, you can often spray a little summer oil
over the problem and help shut it down. Winter is the main time
to treat for prevention, but if you see them now, shut them down!
- On fruit trees: If you have a good set of fruit, the tree’s
vigor may have cut back. They’ll also have gotten very tall
and lanky. Don’t let them get overgrown. Fruit trees set
fruit where there’s light. In July and August, they’re
starting to set fruit buds for next fall. So, prune out those
tall suckers in the center to allow light in to set fruit buds
all the way through the canopy. Otherwise, you’ll just have
an umbrella of fruits. Also keep them well watered so they don’t
go into water stress.
- Now’s the last time to prune your fall blooming perennials
to get them ready for their big show. This includes Mexican marigold,
chrysanthemums, the obedient plant, Mexican bush sage, copper
canyon daisy and asters. They’re getting lanky, so shear
them lightly one last time so they can put on the growth that
will support their fall flowers.
- This is a great time to analyze the garden to see what needs
to be moved. If you’re watering a spot too often, maybe
it’s time to change to some drought-tolerant plants. Or
your sun and shade situation has changed and you need to make
some conversions. So, make your notes to plan project weekends
in October.
- Spider mites are still a problem, so blast plants with water
once a week, and make sure you direct the spray to hit the underside
of the leaves.
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<< more Planting Tips |
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